When you start again, I would recommend a good warm up, climbing lots of really easy stuff for, say, 25 - 30 minutes. If I were you, I'd take 3 - 4 weeks off training completely and then start again in a controlled manner. Now, what to do? I'm not a medical doctor, but I think you need to slow down and give your tendons a chance to recover. I think this is what is happening to you right now. Therefore you run the risk of injury because your muscles are capable of putting more stress on your tendons than they can handle. And from what I have read, tendons take a lot longer to respond to hard training than your muscles do. So, in theory, your muscles will react fast and get stronger if you train hard - however, your tendons react a lot slower, their strenght do not increase with the same speed as your muscles. In the meantime, here's my opinion: First, bouldering/sport climbing is an activity that puts a lot of stress on your tendons. I'm sure the good doctor will give you an adequate answer to you question. im 35 years old 183cm hight and weigh 70kg if that helps.Ĭongratulations on having found climbing :-) Great to hear about you enthusiasm. Question is what is your advice? how hard can I safely train? should i take a break until the inflammation disappears or can i continue climbing as long as I tape my phalanges and avoid crimping too much? how many times a week would it be sensible to train? I really do not want to end up with a worse injury that would take me out of business for a long time as I love climbing so much but on the other hand i dont want to stop climbing and improving as I have set myself a target of getting to V8, 7b-7c in 6-8 months. Seems like my left hand pulleys are getting inflamed.
but there's definitely a little pain and swelling after climbing and the next day if i squeeze my phalanges gently. I haven't lost any strength or have problems closing my fist (though it does feel a little cumbersome) and the pain does seem to disappear while i'm actually warmed up and climbing. recently I have started to feel some sensitivity in the proximal and medial phalanges of the 3 middle fingers on my left (weaker) hand.
right now I'm doing V4-V5 bouldering and in routes I'm up to 6b-6c. Hi, I have only been climbing for only 5-6 weeks now and loving it very much so I tend to go quite hard and climb almost every day.
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